CLIMBS IN FAIRY CAVE QUARRY

Upon entering the quarry, follow the track to the right past old foundations and into the quarry proper. Keeping right. Head to the south face. The climbing is on the large slabs ahead. At the foot of the face is a rubble pile covering a pipe leading to a cave entrance. 12m right of this is "Harmans Tree".

Climb location map

(1) WITHY CRACK 100' VS 5A.

Start at top of small bolder pile right of Misty Morning. From the bolder pile gain the sloping ramp of grass using the crack system. 12'. Move up the grass rightwards to gain the base of a thin crack line (poorly protected.)

Follow the crack over the bulge to easier ground and follow this to the top and exit left to avoid loose blocks. Stake belay at top.

J SWIFT 1992

 

(2) MISTY MORNING 100' HS 4b

20m right of Harmans Tree climb blank slab unprotected to overlap 30'. Mount this to second overlap to gain base of small crack on left. Follow this to bolder l (care, needed). Continue to top on same line. (Not lead)

J SWIFT A LINSEY 1992

 

(3) HARMANíS TREE 100' S.4A

Climb west facing corner to overlap, 40'. Surmount this continuing up to the top on thin crack line

T HARMAN, M POLAND 1993

 

More slabs are to be found to the left of Harmans Tree but these have to date been unclimbed.

The next climbs are to the left in the far corner of the west side of the quarry. Follow the south face left to the corner until a blocked cave entrance is found in the quarry floor (Conning Tower Cave).

The north facing tower in front of this has one climb.

(4) THE CONNING TOWER 100' VD

Start 6m right of cave in floor. Climb up centre of face on cracks and ledges to finish on loose top.

J SWIFT 1993.

 

Behind the cave a rising track leads to Balch's slide, 17m north of Conning Tower next to cave entrance. Obvious smooth slide.

(5) BALCH'S SLIDE 80' VS 5b.

Climb the centre of the slide direct.

J SWIFT 1994 (not lead)

 

(6) CRISTEL WALL 50' S 4a

40m up slope from Balch's slide opposite large bolder on track. Climb large crack on right of slab for 20' then either continue up right side of overlap and move left to gain centre crack on slab to grassy ledge, or take crack up centre of overlap 4c to gain same ledge. Continue to top on left crack

J SWIFT 1994

 

(7) ROBíS CRACK 100' HS 5a

This climb is to be found on the far south east of the quarry. Upon entering the east side of the quarry walk to the far end of the south face. On the south face can be seen a large blank slab. Start at the right edge following the crack for 20'. Then moving left to gain the foot of a think crack follow this for 50'. Then continue rightwards on same crack to top. Move left at top to avoid loose finish.

R CONNALY J SWIFT 1993

 

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